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2004, Wilson, A. I. “Archaeological evidence for textile production and dyeing in Roman North Africa”, in C. Alfaro, J. P. Wild and B. Costa (eds) Purpureae Vestes. Textiles y tintes del Mediterráneo en época romana. Publicaciones de la Universidad de Valencia, Valencia 2004: 155-64.
Relatively little attention has been paid to the archaeology of textile productionin North Africa. The purpose of this paper is to review the evidence for the production and dyeing of textiles, to assess how we may distinguish between the remains of fulling establishments and dyeworks, and between different kinds of dyeing; and to see what can be deduced about the scale and organisation of production. It must be stressed that such a picture will necessarily remain very sketchy until more sites have been excavated with a view to answering these sorts of questions. Because minor finds such as spindlewhorls, loomweights and needles from North African sites are rarely and poorly published, I shall focus on the evidence for physical plant and infrastructure, which is necessarily related primarily to the stages of fulling and dyeing. This is essentially an archaeology of soaking and trampling; both fulling and dyeing require vats and tubs. Fulling involves trampling cloth in tubs in a detergent solution to remove the lanolin from the fibres, followed by rinsing in vats, and then drying, carding, bleaching and pressing. The vats and tubs have no need to be heated. Dyeing, however, may well involve heating the solution, and may not have involved treading or trampling. Sites discussed in this paper include Timgad, Thuburbo Maius, Tiddis, Cuicul (Djemila) Hippo Regius, Meninx, and Berenice (Benghazi).
Stretching from the arid landscape of Nubia to the plains of the Blue and White Nile regions, the kingdom of Meroe (300 BCE – 400 CE) developed a unique textile tradition represented by thousands of fabric fragments, numerous tools, archaeobotanical remains, and a rich iconographic repertoire. The diversity of the historical data provides a great opportunity to study the patterns of textile production and consumption in the Meroitic society. This paper will first focus on restoring the textile implements to their archeological locations in order to identify the different contexts and scales of textile manufacture, primarily spinning and weaving. From a domestic production inside living quarters to the creation of multi-tasking industrial areas, textile making was deeply integrated amidst the Meroitic urban landscape and involved in its economy. Far from homogenous however, the Meroitic textile industry reflected the social complexity and the ethnic diversity of the kingdom. The paper’s second part will thus relate the settlement data on textile production to the finished products – fabrics and clothing – discovered in graves and depicted on reliefs and statues, thereby linking the textiles to the individuals using them. The role of the administrative and religious elite will particularly be discussed, both as commissioners and consumers of specific textile goods, as well as official relays in a state-controlled industry. In the absence of relevant written sources, textile studies present an innovative method to answer the many pending questions regarding the economic resources and social agency of the Meroitic kingdom. Between the Nile and the savannahs, its little-known textile tradition offer an interesting case-study to understand the dynamics of textile and craft production at the very margins of the Mediterranean world.
Egypt as a textile hub. Textile interrelationships in the 1st millennium AD
North African relationships: Textiles from the Nile Valley and the Sahara2019 •
This paper will present a broad overview of spinning practices in ancient Sudan during the Classic and Late Meroitic period (0-550 CE). It will call upon different types of archaeological sources, focussing its attention on the textile fibres and the tools used for their transformation into thread. The Meroitic textile industry has been known for quite a long time now, and is magnificently illustrated by the well-preserved textiles found in the northern part of the kingdom, in Nubia, mainly on cemetery sites. The past two decades have seen a great renewal of interest for the excavation of settlement sites in Central Sudan, which shed light onto previously little known aspects of textile production in the political core of the Meroitic territory. Many textile implements were notably discovered within occupation layers, especially spindle whorls. They document the organisation of textile craft, and provide interesting counter-points to the preserved fabrics. Interestingly, the thousands of spindle whorls dated to this period in Sudan present a sharp divide: the Nubian ones are generally made of turned wood while the ones from Central Sudan are made of ceramic. This material difference could have had various justifications. Is it the visible marker of different spinning technologies? Did it reflect different textile traditions? This paper will explore these questions, while presenting ongoing work on the spinning tools discovered in Sudan.
Archaeological Textiles Review No. 61 Contents Archaeological Textiles Review
Current Research in Textile Archaeology along the Nile2019 •
2022 •
Following the growth in textile studies over the past decade, we aim to present a comprehensive update of the state-of-the-art summarised in the seminal 2010 paper “Old Textiles – New Possibilities” by E. Andersson Strand, K. M. Frei, M. Gleba, U. Mannering, M.-L. Nosch and I. Skals. The diverse developments of the last decade, along with the increased recognition of the importance of textile studies in adjacent fields, now merit a dedicated, full-length publication entitled “Ancient Textile Production from an Interdisciplinary Perspective: Humanities and Natural Sciences Interwoven for our Understanding of Textiles”. With this volume, we also wish to illustrate the current impact of textile archaeology on the scholarly perception of the past (not limited to archaeology alone). The volume presents new insights into the consumption, meaning, use and re-use of textiles and dyes, all of which are topics of growing importance in textile research. As indicated by the title, we demonstrate the continued importance of interdisciplinarity by showcasing several ‘interwoven’ approaches to environmental and archaeological remains, textual and iconographic sources, archaeological experiments and ethnographic data, from a large area covering Europe and the Mediterranean, Near East, Africa and Asia. The chronological span is deliberately wide, including materials dating from c. 6th millennium BCE to c. mid-14th century CE.
Encyclopedia of Archaeology
Bier and Dusenbury, Textiles, Encyclopedia of Archaeology (2008), vol. 3, pp. 2119-21252008 •
Textiles and archaeology have a complex relationship. Textiles are pervasive in virtually all societies, but their pervasive presence and cultural importance is not reflected in the archaeological record. As products of technology, objects of trade, markers of identity, and bearers of constructed meanings, and sometimes as works of art, textiles can convey massive amounts of information about human societies and their economies. They represent a range of forms and functions; they are expressive of cultural ideals and norms, government decrees, and human ideals, desires, and aspirations. Textiles articulate relationships among individuals, identities, and cultural groupings. Representing sophisticated understandings of materials and their properties, and manipulated through diverse technologies, textiles embody human ingenuity, creativity, and pragmatic solutions to everyday problems of the human condition. In spite of their profound significance, they factor minimally in the archaeological record due to a variety of factors such as their fragile nature, organic composition, patterns of use and wear, and general tendency to decompose in most environments. Article explores what we know of textiles and archaeology in Egypt and the Near, Asia, and the Americas.
Paléorient, vol. 38, 1-2
The textile chaîne opératoire: using a multidisciplinary approach to textile archaeology with a focus on the Ancient Near East2012 •
Knowledge of textile history including fibre, technology, tools etc, is essential and absolutely necessary for our understanding of the past. Textile research has become an important field of archaeology and has an enormous potential, being able to tell us about economic, social, chronological, and cultural aspects of past societies. Due to poor preservation conditions, few textiles have survived in the Near East. However, the few existing fragments, in combination with other sources, provide evidence of a well-developed knowledge of how to use fibres for producing textiles. Furthermore, the analyses demonstrate that several types of plant and animal fibres were used in textile production. Flax fibres and sheep wool are considered to be the two most important textile fibres from Neolithic to modern times. Information gathered from the analysis of textiles suggests that it is highly plausible that the different stages of processing fibres were similar across ancient Eurasia even if it is, of course, important to consider that different climate zones will affect both the need for and access to fibres. Archaeobotanical and zoo ostelogical material also provide information on the use of textile fibres. Additionally, different types of installations (e.g. retting pits, workshops) and textile tools (e.g. mallets, spindles, looms) would have been used and even if many tools were made of perishable materials textile tools such as spindle whorls and loom weights are well known from archaeological contexts. Therefore, this paper will give a basic framework for textile production that will provide important insights into the procurement and processing of plant and animal fibres and briefly on spinning and weaving. This will be accomplished with information from archaeological and written sources used in combination with ethnography and experimental archaeology.
In A. Ulanowska, M. Siennicka, and M. Grupa (eds.), Dynamics and Organisation of Textile Production in Past Societies in Europe and the Mediterranean, Fasciculi Archaeologiae Historicae 31: 81-92.
Clothing the elite? Patterns of textile production and consumption in ancient Sudan and Nubia2018 •
The kingdom of Meroe (300 BCE – 350 CE) developed a truly unique textile tradition, represented by hundreds of preserved fabrics, tools and iconographic representations. Together, this vast body of historical data provides a great opportunity to study the patterns of textile production and consumption in the Meroitic society. This paper will first focus on restoring the textile implements to their archaeological locations in order to identify the different contexts and scales of textile manufacturing, primarily spinning and weaving. Far from homogenous, the Meroitic textile industry reflected the social complexity and the ethnic diversity of the kingdom. The paper’s second part will thus relate the settlement data on textile production to the finished products – fabrics and clothing – discovered in graves and depicted on reliefs and statues, thereby linking the textiles to the individuals using them. The role of the administrative and religious elite will particularly be discussed, both as commissioners and consumers of specific textile goods, as well as official relays in a state-controlled industry.
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